Derik:
Lots of people complain to me about the kind of rash you describe, and it's hard to be sure exactly what it is. As you note yourself, skin coloring doesn't seem to have much to do with it. I think that in many people it's a form of allergic reaction not to the ssunscreen or the burning rays of the sun, but to the long waves of ultraviolet light that sunscreens don't block. The remedies are therefore:
1. Vacation in Alaska.
2. Use a broad-spectrum sunscreen that covers UVA rays (long wave UV): many screens do this, and say so on the label.
3. Try taking an antihistamine like clortrimeton 4mg (OTC) an hour before hitting the beach. This may make you a little drowsy, but hey--you're on vacation.
4. Wear protective clothing when possible. I know you don't want to, but you also don't want to itch.
5. Vacation in Labrador.
If these fail, try consulting a dermatologist.
Best.
Dr. Rockoff
PS. Most people don;t like suggestions #1 and #5.