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Forest Fire Suggestions

Forest Fire Suggestions

These are some comments about the problems associated with forest fires. Any input is welcomed.
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With the terrible loss inflicted by forest fires in CaliforniaI was moved to make this post. We have two small homes in a forest fire prone area.

(a) The suggestion to "clear brush" around your home is not always practicable. In our area you get a summons for picking up a branch on state owned or private property.  This means there is dead wood on the ground constituting a hazard that we cannot remove without legal implications. The local village appointed constable mothbrain to enforce these regulations. Constable mothbrain failed the psychological tests for 73 police department before he got this job in the little town where he gets to play "Elliot Ness" and carry a chrome plated .44 magnum while ticketing the great unwashed for removing sticks of firewood from property they don't own or having a beer while boating on the lake. He also delights in harrasing those who shoot rattlesnakes (we would NEVER do that...hmmmm) because they are a protected species. Mothbrain also shot down the idea of keeping a surplus fire engine on the property because it was a "derilect uninsured vehicle". I have no answer or solution.
(b) Enough humor. We have a problem because there is high canopy forest adjacent to our homes and practically speaking up the creek without a paddle. We have no authority to cut down trees on adjacent land.
(c) We keep two 2 1/2 gallon pressurized water extinguishers handy. Cost about $100 each. On discount $60. These would be used up pretty quickly. You need an air compressor to refill and use these again.
(d) We also have two five gallon "Indian pumps" available. I strongly recommend anyone in a hazard area purchase two of these. They run from $125 - $200. They have a five gallon capacity and strap on the back so you can lug them around. Firefighters use them to fight brush fires. From watching the television reels many firefighters don't know how to use these. When filled they can cause an instant back injury. Thus, on firefighting rigs they should be stored on an elevated shelf on the rig, rather than on a lower step. Thus, you simply back up to the straps and put the filled unit on without having to bend over. When getting the unit refilled, it is helpful to put the unit on a high shelf and refill , take a break, and then while standing, back to the unit. Not always possible. Learn how to lift with your leg muscles, and if one of these is on the ground, it is helpful to have two people at the refill point lift it and slip it on your back. Unless you are machoman.
(e) We have a well, however the well pump is low pressure.Thus,it is adviseable to keep at least two 55 gallon drums filled with water on an elevated platform with large valves to fill the Indian pumps.
(f) Professional portable firefighting pumps are expensive, but we purchased a brand new pump with a spray wand and gasoline engine for $50  manufactured for use as a portable car wash on sale.List is much higher.
(g) Stirrup pumps (called Bantams) are useful, but hard to find. These are lightweight andcome with and without a water cointainer,depending on the model. Used ones often require rebuilding. These were issued to the public at cost during WW2 and equipped with a 25 foot,length of hose and an adjustable sliding valve that could produce either a 15 foot or 30 foot stream. We got two at a surplus store. New hose was required. Very useful.
(h) A ladder is necessary. If a fire brand lands on the roof, you will have to put it out quickly and the stream from a 2 1/2 gallon extinguisher may not reach all areas of your roof without a ladder.
(i) Give a substantial contribution to the local volunteer fire department (and volunteer ambulance service) before you need them. These people do a great job and are often strapped for funds.
(j) At least 200 foot of garden hose. There is aproblem with this because the longer thelength of garden hose the greater the frictional loss and the less pressure at the end. You can run two parrallel garden hoses and have a connection that mates them into a single hose at the last length. Yes, you will need a "gang" valve at the house, to permit multiple connections. Buy the fittings at Home Depot.
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A so-called "Indian pump" consistsof a stainless steel tank (older ones are of brass) with a cushioned surface (optional) and straps to attach it to the back, much like a "backpack". At the top of the tank is a large mouthed cap. At the bottom is a hose attached to a sliding-handle pump. The water is forced out by sliding the handle back and forth. Normally one firefighyter uses this unit, however it can be tiring, and there are various strategies, such as changing firefighters every third refill or letting one person pump while the other lugs the tank on his/her back. While it is true that this unit is useless in a firestorm many brush fires can be contained by the use of several of these units agressively deployed. If you live in any area where there is a potential for brush fires a pair of these units is a worthwhile investment. There must be a provision for refilling them quickly without the firefighter having to walk a long distance. Think on this.
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Buckets are also helpful to have around. You will find that the "bail" or metal carrying handle will cut into your hand. Thus, if you have buckets set asside for fire fighting contingencies wrap duct tape circumferentially around the bail to provide a comfortable grip. Several sets of heavy gloves should be available. Polyester or wash and wear clothing will be a problem near a fire so all cotton garments are indicated, denim, jeans and military high top boots are preferred. Ideally, firefighting clothing and boots, but that probably won't be available. If you have a well the electricity will probably go down and the well won't pump. The well pumps are not high amperage and if you purchase an inexpensive 110 volt converter for your automobile and isolate the well-pump circuit, the power from your auto will just about be enough to power the well pump.
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I would also recommend purchase of a surplus military 400 gallon water trailer with pintle. These may be towed by a pick-up with an appropriate pintle attachment. I have purchase one of these for $300. They are invaluable if you live in a rural area away from the fire services.
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A few other things that our local rural department recommends to residents. They are not original suggestions. Clear driveways to 16 foot to permit entry of fire equipment. Use fire resistant roofing and other building material. Clear all overhanging branches and leaves and debri from your roof. Clear a 30 foot area around your house. Make sure your entry road has a sign with the name of the road. The access to our country home is via a dirt road and there is no sign, incidentally. Keep all emergency numbers handy and posted. Keep a "D" handled shovel available.
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The question should arise: "What can one person really acomplish in the face of a forest fire?"  The San Diego Union-Tribute wrote the following story. A 42 year old man lived with his 76 year old mother, Mantha Carter, and a 44 year old half-brother. Six San Diego firefighters forcibly evacuated the family, leaving the mother bleeding from the nose. A little rough handling by the "rescuers". Lovely. They lived in a 100 space trailer park. After they were evacuated John Gibbons borrowed a motorcycle and sped past a police blockade. Armedonly with s shovel andputting dirt on embers for two days John raced around throwing dirt on embers. Eighty percent of the trailers were burned to the ground. John's trailer home was unscathed. "There is a thin red line between valor and stupidity", as columnist Maggie Gallager says, regarding the incident. Commented John: "When your mother starts crying, what's a man to do?"
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A few more random thoughts. A variety of inexpensive pressurized garden sprayers are available ranging from $25 - $60 and from 2-3 gallon capacity. These are helpful, but the spray does not go very far. In Indian Pump can put water on a spot twenty foot away. The Garden sprayers can be handled by children, however, and are useful in putting out embers. If you decide to invest on a water trailer these should only be driven entirely full or entirely empty. They are very dangerous when driven and only half full. Because they are not "baffled" the water sloshes. Lots of weight. If you have a half full trailer and suddenly brake at an intersection the water will slosh foward and either push your vehicle through the intersection or jack-knife the trailer. If you have an above ground swimming pool install a large valve at the bottom for use as an emergency fire-fighting water supply. Consider purchasing a pump to attach to the base of the pool for this purpose and some hose.
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Another accessory you are going to need besides heavy gloves (work leather are best, without fur liners) is a wide brimmed cotton or canvas hat or a leather wide brimmed cowboy hat. You have no need for a traditional fireman's helmet. Fireman's helmets are effective, but you are not entering an area where you have to worry about bricks falling down on your head and they are heavy. Soak this in water before putting it on. Brush fires stir up thousands of teensey-weensey embers and they tend to land on your head and the back of your neck. (Ouch!) Wear a cotton or denim shirt, long-sleeved, buttoned up with the collar (wet) turned up to protect the back of the neck. Chainsaws are helpful in felling trees, but felling a tree is VERY DANGEROUS unless you know exactly what you are doing. If you are thinking of taking down heavy trees on your property as a precaution I suggest you hire a preofessional. Unfortunately they tend to be pricey, but they are worth it. It is difficult to tell what direction a tree will fall. In an emergency, a "come-along" placed under tension at an upper part of the tree pulling it in the direction you wish it to fall will increase safety.
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There is a burn forum and I am not going to advice on the treatment of burns. If your clothing catches fire make sure the fire is completely out. This may sound silly, but I have seen rescue teams (who should have known better) bring fire injuries into an emergency room with the clothing smoldering. Now I am going to give more controversial advice. In your first aid supplies get a prescription supply of prednisone, albuterol spray and Guaifenesin expectorant. Now if you have any kind of a burn the prednisone will interfere with healing, so it is contraindicated. The problem with brush fires is that often, if you take a "feed" some prople will experience an asthmatic attack, even if they have no history of asthma. And this can be life threatening. Of course you want to be away from the smoke and get on supplemental oxygenb from a nasal cannula if available.  If you have the albuterol, exhale to the limit of possibility and inhale while spraying. Hold your breath as long as you can. Three minutes later repeat once. Take one 10 mg prednisone. The expectorant will help you cough up the smoke material. I don't advise this unless you are far from medical aid, but it is my experience that in the event of a major disaster your chances of obtaining prompt medical attention are about as good as you winning six million dollars the first day at Las Vegas.
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There are a great variety of flame retardant paints available. They all seem to have two things in common. They are toxic to apply and very expensive. We use a product called Burn Barrier 10, at about $82 a gallon, plus tax, which covers 300 square feet of cedar shakes and you have to use two coats. Ouch! I have no information comparing and contrasting this products, except it happened to be available. There are lots of others available. If you are constructing a wooden deck in an area prone to brush fires think twice, and seriously consider a fire-proofing treatment at the time of installation. If a brush fire is imminent clear everything off the deck, including plastic fabric chairs and beach umbrellas.
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Another useful tool for fighting brush fires is called a "Fire Flapper", or "Swatter". These consist of a long fibreglass (or wooden) handle attached to a metal "flap" on a leather hinge. The "flap" is perhaps 18 inches by 20 inches. They vary. A flapper is used to put out a grass fire by dragging it over the burning area. You can see them ocasionally at garage sales or surplus stores for next to nothing. Thirty years ago they were stanbard equipment. Nowadays I'm not sure. You could make your own. One or more rakes are also handy to have around. And keep a case of bottled water or gatorade around. If firefighting water is trucked in by tanker, it is likely to be non-potable.
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You can make a "home-made" flapper by getting an old burlap bag and using radiator hose clamps to attach it to a discarded broom handle. Keep a bucket of water handy. Dump the burlap into the water in the bucket and use it to "swat" the embers.
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Ideally, you should have a 200 foot bare area around your home. Let's be realistic. Who would want to live in a place that looks like a federal prison facility? Aesthetics do count. That's why we live with trees that really should be cut down. Ambience is important.  So let's just think about clearing branches below six foot, keeping wood away from the house and the propane tanks, and using a little common sense. I'm as ecological as the next guy, but our local fire service puts out a pamphlet emphasizing that although forest fires have been raging, make sure not to violate the "Native Plant Ordnance", or cut down vegetation "within natural open space". I think the person responsible for that pamphlet should seek help on the Med Help mental health issue forum. But maybe it's me? My ex-significant other constantly recommended mental counseling.  Use a little common sense, but if your family is in danger, "Force Majure" is the rule. Rulebooks are paper. That's what Ernest Gann used to say. (Do Read: "Fate is the Hunter") Remember that does NOT reflect the position of Med Help. We have several family residences in rural areas next to forest fire vulnerable areas, accessable only by dirt roads. There are fire roads to provide access, but private property owners often hire a sixteen year to operate on a bulldozer to drag logs to block these roads to prevent trespassers, often by BIG logs. In fire fighting season, get a chain, get your four-wheeled (you knew it would be good for something) and pull these barriers away. Don't ask. These roads need to be clear. There is something else to think about. I admit I haven't done this. We have a tiny stream adjacent to out property advancing a mile up from our property.  We are thinking about constructing a small dam (a weir, actually) some distance from the property enabling a small pond could be formed enabling us to dip water for firefighting purposes. Not a BIG pond. Just two feet deep and perhaps four foot wide. It's a LONG way to haul water.  If you are in an area with vegetation and dirt roads do not park your cars on dry grass. Instead, construct a hardstand of gravel or packed earth away from dry brush. And the catalytic converters on the bottom of some vehicles can start a brush fire if you park on dry grass!
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If you have pets, put them on leashes in the house. You may not have a leash for a house cat. Get one. And have a container available to evaluate them. Birds, especially parakeets, do not do well after smoke inhalation. Close doors and windows and make sure the air conditioner is on "internal circulation" so air from the outside is not drawn in. The local fire departments often pass out literature about "cleaning up debri" on your property, but in many rural areas this isn't so easy. In the little rural county where we have out "country homes" there are dirt roads and strictly enforced trash ordnances. You can't simply "dump"  raked leaves (nor can you burn debri any longer), cut brush, or logs or rotten lumber. You have to pay to go to our special local dump (only open three days a week during specified hours) and pay for a special tag and you are charged for every bit of debri you dump. If you are in the area only periodically (for vacation) you don't want to spend three days of the vacation week on trash runs. And your family car may not be suitable for hauling debri. One solution is to arrange for a "roll-off" dumpster to be deposited near your property, and fill that up. That's my suggestion. They are expensive. They come in various sizes.  If your neighbors see it, be aware they will bring their trash over to dump in and you will soon have a full dumpster and plenty of your own trash left. So use of a dumpster requires planning. The companies that supply these dumpsters usually take care of the permits for dumping. Ask.  And the containers have large steel wheels and require a compact area to be put down on. You may need heavy boards to provide a place for the wheels.
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