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HELP - my dog bit someone
Please don’t blame me I am so down right now I could hardly take it.
I am trying my best with two little dogs, I don’t have ‘dog experience’ and I am really trying my best and learning something new every day.
Please can anyone help me?
Today we were at a wooded area where dogs can go free and my dog just darted forward and bit a woman. Oh my God, is all I can say. She was pulling a sled on the snow with a young child on it and it was making a lot of noise. My dog’ B’ could have bit the child. The woman and her husband were very nice about it as I was ‘completely overwhelmed embarrassed and every other negative emotion you can think of.
This Dog has never been mistreated. Has freedom to go in and out the ‘dog door’ to the garden all day and night. Sleeps upstairs with us. He does run around the garden a couple of times a day and other exercise comes in a 1 and half hour walk, to a zone where he is off lead and meets other dogs + gets on fine.
He has had a terrible life, he is one and a half and for one year he has had diarrhea coming and going. So many courses of anti-biotics, blood tests. Infusions regularly, which he hates is so fearful of. Anti biotics always worked, then relapses and after many tests etc. steroids then. Then a total relapse when steroids finishes. Tried every diet. Then after all that a colonoscopy 6 weeks ago, he had to stay in for three days. He is now diagnosed with the dog version of crones disease IBD. He will need medication for life. He weighs 5 kilos and has gained 1 kilo in the last month from steroids, we are now reducing for the optimum dose.
My husband said I am not hard enough on him. He has completed 2 X 12 week courses in discipline (the dog not my husband LOL). We are not going now it is too cold. He can walk around with me off the lead. The Dog expert roared at him when he barked. She said I should bawl loudly! Is that right?? It didn’t seem right to me.
He has started barking at everyone, he barks at our family when we come down the stairs? When my son comes home, he gets aggressive a big act. He never barks at me.
But today wasn’t an act, I can never trust him again and I am sure he can sense that.
PLEASE WHAT SHOULD I DO WHEN HE IS AGGRESSIVE?
I am trying my best with two little dogs, I don’t have ‘dog experience’ and I am really trying my best and learning something new every day.
Please can anyone help me?
Today we were at a wooded area where dogs can go free and my dog just darted forward and bit a woman. Oh my God, is all I can say. She was pulling a sled on the snow with a young child on it and it was making a lot of noise. My dog’ B’ could have bit the child. The woman and her husband were very nice about it as I was ‘completely overwhelmed embarrassed and every other negative emotion you can think of.
This Dog has never been mistreated. Has freedom to go in and out the ‘dog door’ to the garden all day and night. Sleeps upstairs with us. He does run around the garden a couple of times a day and other exercise comes in a 1 and half hour walk, to a zone where he is off lead and meets other dogs + gets on fine.
He has had a terrible life, he is one and a half and for one year he has had diarrhea coming and going. So many courses of anti-biotics, blood tests. Infusions regularly, which he hates is so fearful of. Anti biotics always worked, then relapses and after many tests etc. steroids then. Then a total relapse when steroids finishes. Tried every diet. Then after all that a colonoscopy 6 weeks ago, he had to stay in for three days. He is now diagnosed with the dog version of crones disease IBD. He will need medication for life. He weighs 5 kilos and has gained 1 kilo in the last month from steroids, we are now reducing for the optimum dose.
My husband said I am not hard enough on him. He has completed 2 X 12 week courses in discipline (the dog not my husband LOL). We are not going now it is too cold. He can walk around with me off the lead. The Dog expert roared at him when he barked. She said I should bawl loudly! Is that right?? It didn’t seem right to me.
He has started barking at everyone, he barks at our family when we come down the stairs? When my son comes home, he gets aggressive a big act. He never barks at me.
But today wasn’t an act, I can never trust him again and I am sure he can sense that.
PLEASE WHAT SHOULD I DO WHEN HE IS AGGRESSIVE?
Congratulations! You're definitely on the right track. :-)
One tool that helps with barking is a squirt gun (or other container) filled with 3 parts water to 1 part white vinegar. Diluted that far, it won't hurt your furniture or carpets. Keep it just as handy as your treat containers, because again, timing is everything.
If your dog barks every time someone knocks on the door, set him up. Have your squirter ready and ask someone to knock. The second your dog barks, he gets one squirt in the face. Since dogs have such powerful noses, the vinegar smell makes a big impression. If he stops barking, "claim" the door. He must move out of the way and wait to be invited to greet the visitor. Have the person acting as "visitor" ignore the dog and let you deal with the training. You'll find that using your body to block your dog's movement is more effective than you might think. Does he do a reliable sit-stay now? If so, make it clear he has to stay that way until invited to greet the visitor.
If your dog is a jumper when he greets someone, there's an exercise for that too. Have the visitor simply hold the dog's front paws. Most dogs don't like having their feet handled, so the visitor should hold the paws just long enough to where the dog starts to pull away. Hold on another second just to make it clear that he's not extracting himself on his own terms. It has to be clear that the person is the one doing the releasing.
I still hear of so-called trainers telling people to knee the dog in the chest when he jumps up for a greeting, and it makes me sick. One, the dog doesn't learn anything; and two, you can seriously injure a dog with that technique.
Give yourself a huge hug and pat on the back for the work you're doing. And pay attention to your dog's body language as you both move along. It won't take much time before you can have very silent communication even off-leash out in public, and how much fun is that?! :-D
One tool that helps with barking is a squirt gun (or other container) filled with 3 parts water to 1 part white vinegar. Diluted that far, it won't hurt your furniture or carpets. Keep it just as handy as your treat containers, because again, timing is everything.
If your dog barks every time someone knocks on the door, set him up. Have your squirter ready and ask someone to knock. The second your dog barks, he gets one squirt in the face. Since dogs have such powerful noses, the vinegar smell makes a big impression. If he stops barking, "claim" the door. He must move out of the way and wait to be invited to greet the visitor. Have the person acting as "visitor" ignore the dog and let you deal with the training. You'll find that using your body to block your dog's movement is more effective than you might think. Does he do a reliable sit-stay now? If so, make it clear he has to stay that way until invited to greet the visitor.
If your dog is a jumper when he greets someone, there's an exercise for that too. Have the visitor simply hold the dog's front paws. Most dogs don't like having their feet handled, so the visitor should hold the paws just long enough to where the dog starts to pull away. Hold on another second just to make it clear that he's not extracting himself on his own terms. It has to be clear that the person is the one doing the releasing.
I still hear of so-called trainers telling people to knee the dog in the chest when he jumps up for a greeting, and it makes me sick. One, the dog doesn't learn anything; and two, you can seriously injure a dog with that technique.
Give yourself a huge hug and pat on the back for the work you're doing. And pay attention to your dog's body language as you both move along. It won't take much time before you can have very silent communication even off-leash out in public, and how much fun is that?! :-D
Thank you so much again!!
We are doing much better, we are going full on dog training games, etc. I am really going to stop him barking and when he stops that only then will he have lead free time.
I watched the recommended videos, great and we are doing long walks I even set my alarm clock 15 minutes earlier. treats in containers all around the place and got one of those bags on a belt etc.
I see improvement already and they are both following me around the place,
I am going to work at it and hopefully in the end we will have two happy dogs.
We are doing much better, we are going full on dog training games, etc. I am really going to stop him barking and when he stops that only then will he have lead free time.
I watched the recommended videos, great and we are doing long walks I even set my alarm clock 15 minutes earlier. treats in containers all around the place and got one of those bags on a belt etc.
I see improvement already and they are both following me around the place,
I am going to work at it and hopefully in the end we will have two happy dogs.
Oh no! I'm so sorry for this accident for everyone concerned. Luckily, it sounds like the people involved were very nice about the whole thing. Sick or not, you have a dog with a very dominant personality and in his mind, HE owns you both. It's past time to regain authority over your dog. :-)
The so-called "dog expert" you hired is a total idiot. After reading that he tells you to roar at your barking dog, it's no wonder he isn't responding to any disciplinary measures. I can only imagine the noise in the classroom!
First, try to change the way you think of the word "discipline." It doesn't mean "being hard" on your dog; it means being consistent in what you ask of your dog. For discipline to be effective, the dog has to understand what you want him to do. As long as you both understand that "sit" means "sit as soon as I say it", you have good communication - on that one thing. :-)
Learning dog language is so easy once you know what to look for. A calm, relaxed dog is open to paying attention to you, which is what you want. Chiefly, your dog needs to see you as the source from whom all blessings flow (if I may wax Biblical for a moment). Right now, he's the head honcho in his own mind and he is running the household. A tense dog with a fixed stare and stiffly held ears and tail is giving a warning he's about to attack. You want to recognize those signs BEFORE the behavior escalates to an attack. Some dogs give you a whole lot of warning; others can blow in a second; but the warning signs are always there.
Correction techniques are important to learn correctly, but as with any dog communication, timing is everything. A split second too soon or too late with the correction and the dog is bewildered and doesn't learn what you want from him. Take the "sit" example. Early in training, you say "sit" once and place the dog in the position. The second his rear hits the floor, praise and give a treat. As training goes on, you still only verbalize the command one time, but if the dog delays by more than a couple of steps (if you're walking he has to get his rear underneath him to sit) then you use the leash pop to correct him. No treats unless he does it perfectly. That's graduation level. :-)
Use this same technique to get your dog to respond to his name every time you call him. Use whatever nickname you like, but for training keep it to one name so you're consistent. Sit next to your dog and say his name. The second he looks you in the eye, he gets a treat. If he's slow on the uptake or a new dog, use a treat to lure his attention up toward your face. As soon as he looks at your face, reward him. The object in this lesson is to reward the look. Don't push to have him stare at you. He'll do that on his own as training progresses. This exercise is probably the most important one you can do to begin establishing your authority.
Until you get some confidence in off-leash response and handling, no more dog parks. If you go to a dog park, do it properly and walk your dog first. I know it sounds crazy, but dogs with pent up energy let loose in parks are one of the biggest reasons for the kind of incident you describe. You're not aiming to take a worn out and exhausted dog to the park. What you DO want is a relaxed dog who has spent mental and physical time with you first. Working off frustrated energy first is a must. The daily walk is also a must; the dog park is a big treat. :-)
The biting incident doesn't sound like an attack to me. It's more of a warning shot. He was not at all happy with the noise, and/ or the sled, and made that very clear. There's a big difference between a warning and an attack. When a dog is seriously in attack mode, it's far more than a run-by bite. Dogs who don't get out of their own territory very often will have problems with these kinds of things because they don't experience them. Ever notice how well some dogs walk along a sidewalk by a busy street and other's don't? The calm dogs have been well-socialized by their owners and exposed to all the noise and motion, thus learning there is nothing to fear. These dogs also see their owners as pack leaders who would never lead them into danger. Trust. It has to be earned in a dog's mind.
I know it's going to be difficult for you to see your dog in a new light. I can hear the sadness and love you have because of his illness. For both your sakes, you can't "baby" him like you would a human child. You can love him and hug him and even sleep with him - as long as it's clear it's on your terms. Cardinal rule of living with dogs: don't reward bad behavior. What is bad behavior? Anything that your dog does that makes YOU do something you don't want to do. If you want to sit in a chair your dog is occupying and he objects to moving, that's bad behavior. Even worse would be a dog who growls to defend "his" chair and the owner gives in through fear. Every time you give in on something your dog wants that you don't, it makes him very powerful in his mind. Give affection only when he's calm and submissive. Submissive here doesn't mean cowering in fear. It simply means he is open to listening to you. A calm submissive dog being petted by his owner isn't trying to get a toy, or struggling to chase that squirrel across the street. He's enjoying quality suck-up time. :-)
Sorry I ended up writing a book. LOL! You do need some help, and attending class once a week isn't going help unless you do the homework. You also need a different trainer. Positive reinforcement goes a long way, but learning dog body-language will put you far ahead of the game. This problem can be fixed with the right help.
The so-called "dog expert" you hired is a total idiot. After reading that he tells you to roar at your barking dog, it's no wonder he isn't responding to any disciplinary measures. I can only imagine the noise in the classroom!
First, try to change the way you think of the word "discipline." It doesn't mean "being hard" on your dog; it means being consistent in what you ask of your dog. For discipline to be effective, the dog has to understand what you want him to do. As long as you both understand that "sit" means "sit as soon as I say it", you have good communication - on that one thing. :-)
Learning dog language is so easy once you know what to look for. A calm, relaxed dog is open to paying attention to you, which is what you want. Chiefly, your dog needs to see you as the source from whom all blessings flow (if I may wax Biblical for a moment). Right now, he's the head honcho in his own mind and he is running the household. A tense dog with a fixed stare and stiffly held ears and tail is giving a warning he's about to attack. You want to recognize those signs BEFORE the behavior escalates to an attack. Some dogs give you a whole lot of warning; others can blow in a second; but the warning signs are always there.
Correction techniques are important to learn correctly, but as with any dog communication, timing is everything. A split second too soon or too late with the correction and the dog is bewildered and doesn't learn what you want from him. Take the "sit" example. Early in training, you say "sit" once and place the dog in the position. The second his rear hits the floor, praise and give a treat. As training goes on, you still only verbalize the command one time, but if the dog delays by more than a couple of steps (if you're walking he has to get his rear underneath him to sit) then you use the leash pop to correct him. No treats unless he does it perfectly. That's graduation level. :-)
Use this same technique to get your dog to respond to his name every time you call him. Use whatever nickname you like, but for training keep it to one name so you're consistent. Sit next to your dog and say his name. The second he looks you in the eye, he gets a treat. If he's slow on the uptake or a new dog, use a treat to lure his attention up toward your face. As soon as he looks at your face, reward him. The object in this lesson is to reward the look. Don't push to have him stare at you. He'll do that on his own as training progresses. This exercise is probably the most important one you can do to begin establishing your authority.
Until you get some confidence in off-leash response and handling, no more dog parks. If you go to a dog park, do it properly and walk your dog first. I know it sounds crazy, but dogs with pent up energy let loose in parks are one of the biggest reasons for the kind of incident you describe. You're not aiming to take a worn out and exhausted dog to the park. What you DO want is a relaxed dog who has spent mental and physical time with you first. Working off frustrated energy first is a must. The daily walk is also a must; the dog park is a big treat. :-)
The biting incident doesn't sound like an attack to me. It's more of a warning shot. He was not at all happy with the noise, and/ or the sled, and made that very clear. There's a big difference between a warning and an attack. When a dog is seriously in attack mode, it's far more than a run-by bite. Dogs who don't get out of their own territory very often will have problems with these kinds of things because they don't experience them. Ever notice how well some dogs walk along a sidewalk by a busy street and other's don't? The calm dogs have been well-socialized by their owners and exposed to all the noise and motion, thus learning there is nothing to fear. These dogs also see their owners as pack leaders who would never lead them into danger. Trust. It has to be earned in a dog's mind.
I know it's going to be difficult for you to see your dog in a new light. I can hear the sadness and love you have because of his illness. For both your sakes, you can't "baby" him like you would a human child. You can love him and hug him and even sleep with him - as long as it's clear it's on your terms. Cardinal rule of living with dogs: don't reward bad behavior. What is bad behavior? Anything that your dog does that makes YOU do something you don't want to do. If you want to sit in a chair your dog is occupying and he objects to moving, that's bad behavior. Even worse would be a dog who growls to defend "his" chair and the owner gives in through fear. Every time you give in on something your dog wants that you don't, it makes him very powerful in his mind. Give affection only when he's calm and submissive. Submissive here doesn't mean cowering in fear. It simply means he is open to listening to you. A calm submissive dog being petted by his owner isn't trying to get a toy, or struggling to chase that squirrel across the street. He's enjoying quality suck-up time. :-)
Sorry I ended up writing a book. LOL! You do need some help, and attending class once a week isn't going help unless you do the homework. You also need a different trainer. Positive reinforcement goes a long way, but learning dog body-language will put you far ahead of the game. This problem can be fixed with the right help.
COMMUNITY LEADER
Yeah this sounds like a dog behaviour issue, and Jaybay is good at that kind of thing. You've been soft on him no doubt because he's been so ill, and I don't blame you. He's needed a lot of kindness and gentleness. But I don't think this is because he feels ill. I think it's because he needs some training. You live and learn. Dogs always make you learn!
Sounds a little out of character for your dog, yes? You say there was a lot of noise as this woman pulled the child on the sled, wonder if he thought the woman was hurting the child? Was the child yelling?
Last summer, some friends were over my house going swimming and took there very small baby in the pool. My Rotty has never been around children or babies before, but the baby started crying when they took her in the pool. My Rotty starting freaking out and crying and jumped in the pool.....to save the baby. It was very evident he thought someone was hurting the baby.
Does the dog act protective of your kids?
Maybe he just wasn't feeling good.
Good luck.
Last summer, some friends were over my house going swimming and took there very small baby in the pool. My Rotty has never been around children or babies before, but the baby started crying when they took her in the pool. My Rotty starting freaking out and crying and jumped in the pool.....to save the baby. It was very evident he thought someone was hurting the baby.
Does the dog act protective of your kids?
Maybe he just wasn't feeling good.
Good luck.
I am not a dog expert at all...I am sure Jaybay, the CL of this forum will respond with ideas for you...however, from what you have said, I agree with your husband...your dog seems to need more discipline and needs to be shown who is boss. Because you feel bad for the health condition of your dog, he is getting away with bad behavior...I know how much you love your "baby" I was the same way with my Tiffany...but it is time for you to take control...how?? wait for JayBay!! LOL!!
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