Aa
doberman aggression
My dobe is the sweetest dog. He is very socialized-- I swear he would lick attack someone if they broke into our house. He is the happiest, healthiest dog. The single problem we have had with him has been with regards to his food. Very young he started growling to protect his food, and what I would do is put his food bowl on the counter every time he growled at me, wait a minute, then give it back to him. It seemed to work for a while but then one time he growled really bad at my boyfriend so he tried spanking him. Since then it has gotten worse. Very sporadically--for what seems to be no reason at all and only occasionally-- he growls at my boyfriend now and tries to protect me. What is weird about it is that he will growl and then if he gives him a command (like, "shake") he will immediately change back to non-aggressive. My boyfriend obviously feels very badly but I'm not sure that he is the issue. Is my dog just being over-protective in combination with being a little afraid of my boyfriend? We are going to have him neutered soon, and hopefully that will help, but there is obviously something wrong with whatever we are doing. What should we do?
MEDICAL PROFESSIONAL
I agree completely with Dr. Hett's and Dr. Jim's comments. I would add that using AutumnGold's desensitization program that Jim included from my book is a safe and effective starting place for the majority of dogs with food bowl (resource) guarding behaviors. Once a dog is showing consistent signs of relaxation and no signs of anxiety when the caretaker is sitting next to the bowl, the desensitization can then begin to include walking by the bowl, once again, using the dog's reaction to judge the pace of the program. It is also helpful to walk by (toss in treats), and then again call the dog to you as soon as he is finished eating, asking for a sit/down when he gets to you. Because movement of the owner is a separate criteria, I would treat it as such and introduce it after the dog has been initially desensitized to proximity.
Best wishes,
Linda Case
Best wishes,
Linda Case
I simply feed our 3 dogs (2 Dobes, 1 Dane) in their own crates. No problems.
MEDICAL PROFESSIONAL
Unfortunately a good way to create a food guarding problem is to repeatedly take the dog's food away. Puppies experiment with all kinds of different behaviors to see what works and what doesn't. If your puppy views anyone approaching his food as a good thing rather than a bad one, then the reason/motivation for the growling goes away.
I would recommend that when your dog's food bowl is down and he is eating, you (and later your boyfriend) walk past the food bowl ( do not look at your dog, do not bend over, do not face him, walk past it with the side of your body toward your dog and the bowl) and toss in a small irresistible goodie - piece of left over steak (small, not a huge chunk), small cube of cheese, 1/10 of a piece of hot dog, etc. Start at a fairly good distance - maybe 6 feet and toss toward food bowl. Repeat until when your dog sees you he looks up in anticipation, relaxed, not tense. Then repeat from 5 1/2 feet.
Continue progressing in these small increments until you can bend over and put a tidbit in his bowl without a problem. Then next step is to pick the bowl up, put the tidbit in and give him his bowl back -so that he learns if the bowl goes away its going to come back with something better in it.
You have to implement this at your discretion - especially when you bend over to put food in the bowl. If you don't feel safe, don't do it. When your boyfriend joins the training have him shadow you at first rather than doing on his own. And start at the beginning with him - not where you left off.
While Linda's program may be OK for some sorts of food aggression problems, I don't see how it will help your dog if the issue is when people pass by him when he is eating.
Your dog's behavior I don't think has anything to do with protecting you, it's about your dog protecting himself and his food. Yes, I do believe he is defensive around your boyfriend. Neutering is a good thing.
good luck, be careful and patient.
Dr. Jim is right - no physical /corporal punishment ever, for any reason.
I would recommend that when your dog's food bowl is down and he is eating, you (and later your boyfriend) walk past the food bowl ( do not look at your dog, do not bend over, do not face him, walk past it with the side of your body toward your dog and the bowl) and toss in a small irresistible goodie - piece of left over steak (small, not a huge chunk), small cube of cheese, 1/10 of a piece of hot dog, etc. Start at a fairly good distance - maybe 6 feet and toss toward food bowl. Repeat until when your dog sees you he looks up in anticipation, relaxed, not tense. Then repeat from 5 1/2 feet.
Continue progressing in these small increments until you can bend over and put a tidbit in his bowl without a problem. Then next step is to pick the bowl up, put the tidbit in and give him his bowl back -so that he learns if the bowl goes away its going to come back with something better in it.
You have to implement this at your discretion - especially when you bend over to put food in the bowl. If you don't feel safe, don't do it. When your boyfriend joins the training have him shadow you at first rather than doing on his own. And start at the beginning with him - not where you left off.
While Linda's program may be OK for some sorts of food aggression problems, I don't see how it will help your dog if the issue is when people pass by him when he is eating.
Your dog's behavior I don't think has anything to do with protecting you, it's about your dog protecting himself and his food. Yes, I do believe he is defensive around your boyfriend. Neutering is a good thing.
good luck, be careful and patient.
Dr. Jim is right - no physical /corporal punishment ever, for any reason.
MEDICAL PROFESSIONAL
Here are some good steps from a book by Linda Case:
Counter-conditioning is used to change a dog’s emotional response to a person approaching her food bowl from anxiety to pleasure and anticipation. Once this change has been initiated, systematic desensitization is added to the program to acclimate the dog to gradually closer proximities to people. The two components for a successful and safe program to change a dog’s response to their food bowl include both counter-conditioning and desensitization: Counter-conditioning: The dog learns that the presence of a person in the room during meal time predicts positive experiences (more food) as opposed to aversive experiences (taking food away). Desensitization: The dog learns (gradually) that the proximity of a person does not pose a threat and continues to predict pleasurable experiences.
Training Program (Note: Dogs who guard their food bowls must be meal fed and not allowed to free-feed):
Select a safe distance: Prior to the first training meal, the owner selects a spot in the kitchen (or room where the dog is fed) that is far enough from the dog’s feeding spot to not evoke any reaction from the dog (i.e. the dog must continue to eat in a relaxed and calm manner; no freezing, wolfing food, or growling). The owner places a chair at that spot.
Dividing dinner: The dog’s ration of food for the meal is divided in half. One-half is placed in his bowl and the second half is poured into a plastic container. The owner has the dog sit-stay prior to receiving his bowl. After placing the bowl on the floor, the owner, carrying the container with the food, walks to the chair and sits down. The owner says nothing as the dog eats his meal.
Come to me for more: As the owner sees that the dog is finishing, he stays seated, and calls the dog to him. When the dog comes, the owner requests a sit and positively reinforces come/sit with one or two pieces of food from the container.
Return to bowl: The owner then calmly stands, walks back to the dog’s bowl, and pours the second half of the meal into the bowl, keeping out one or two small pieces of food. The owner then returns to the chair and remains seated until the dog finishes eating.
One more come when called: When the dog has finished eating, the owner again calls the dog to him, reinforces with the food treats and then leaves the room (with the dog). The dog is taken outside to eliminate and the bowl is picked up while the dog is outdoors or out of the room.
Practice for 3 days: This sequence is repeated for at least three days (six meals). The dog must be showing relaxed and happy behaviors upon returning to the owner and when the owner places the food in the bowl, before proceeding. (This is of utmost importance as the sequence must be practiced for adequate repetitions that the dog views the owner approaching the bowl as something positive, not as an aversive).
Reducing distance (the moving chair): When the dog’s behavior indicates excitement and pleasure upon seeing the owner rise from the chair to place the second part of the meal into her bowl, the owner can begin to place his chair several inches closer to the dog’s bowl each day.
Final caution: When the owner can sit quietly approximately one or two feet away from the dog and the dog is not guarding her food, the training is successful. To be safe and to show dogs the respect they deserve, owners should not touch, pet, or otherwise harass their dog during mealtime.
Hope this is helpful. Linda will be joining us soon.
Counter-conditioning is used to change a dog’s emotional response to a person approaching her food bowl from anxiety to pleasure and anticipation. Once this change has been initiated, systematic desensitization is added to the program to acclimate the dog to gradually closer proximities to people. The two components for a successful and safe program to change a dog’s response to their food bowl include both counter-conditioning and desensitization: Counter-conditioning: The dog learns that the presence of a person in the room during meal time predicts positive experiences (more food) as opposed to aversive experiences (taking food away). Desensitization: The dog learns (gradually) that the proximity of a person does not pose a threat and continues to predict pleasurable experiences.
Training Program (Note: Dogs who guard their food bowls must be meal fed and not allowed to free-feed):
Select a safe distance: Prior to the first training meal, the owner selects a spot in the kitchen (or room where the dog is fed) that is far enough from the dog’s feeding spot to not evoke any reaction from the dog (i.e. the dog must continue to eat in a relaxed and calm manner; no freezing, wolfing food, or growling). The owner places a chair at that spot.
Dividing dinner: The dog’s ration of food for the meal is divided in half. One-half is placed in his bowl and the second half is poured into a plastic container. The owner has the dog sit-stay prior to receiving his bowl. After placing the bowl on the floor, the owner, carrying the container with the food, walks to the chair and sits down. The owner says nothing as the dog eats his meal.
Come to me for more: As the owner sees that the dog is finishing, he stays seated, and calls the dog to him. When the dog comes, the owner requests a sit and positively reinforces come/sit with one or two pieces of food from the container.
Return to bowl: The owner then calmly stands, walks back to the dog’s bowl, and pours the second half of the meal into the bowl, keeping out one or two small pieces of food. The owner then returns to the chair and remains seated until the dog finishes eating.
One more come when called: When the dog has finished eating, the owner again calls the dog to him, reinforces with the food treats and then leaves the room (with the dog). The dog is taken outside to eliminate and the bowl is picked up while the dog is outdoors or out of the room.
Practice for 3 days: This sequence is repeated for at least three days (six meals). The dog must be showing relaxed and happy behaviors upon returning to the owner and when the owner places the food in the bowl, before proceeding. (This is of utmost importance as the sequence must be practiced for adequate repetitions that the dog views the owner approaching the bowl as something positive, not as an aversive).
Reducing distance (the moving chair): When the dog’s behavior indicates excitement and pleasure upon seeing the owner rise from the chair to place the second part of the meal into her bowl, the owner can begin to place his chair several inches closer to the dog’s bowl each day.
Final caution: When the owner can sit quietly approximately one or two feet away from the dog and the dog is not guarding her food, the training is successful. To be safe and to show dogs the respect they deserve, owners should not touch, pet, or otherwise harass their dog during mealtime.
Hope this is helpful. Linda will be joining us soon.
MEDICAL PROFESSIONAL
I want to just comment because Dr. Hetts will give you a more detailed answer. She is out until the end of the week.
You've done some things right, and some very classically wrong. Putting the food up and having the dog sit or "earn" the provision of food is good. And you noticed it did work for a while.
However, when more food guarding occurred and the boyfriend physically punished him - THAT escalates the battle! You never respond to canine possession aggression with aggression of your own. In essence what this does is to lock you and your dog into a battle of wills. Your dog's next move will most likely be to step up his level of aggression in order to counter your action. And I think you have seen that happen also.
You will now have to re-condition your dog to accepting and enjoying having you around at meal times.
Stop all aggression toward the dog. I would have only you do this training at first. Get it established, then introduce boyfriend in the mix. If that does not work - get a new boyfriend. :')
Try hand feeding the dog little bits of food - almost as training treats. Slowly there is an acceptance of your hand providing the food he wants, AND a positive praise from you. Eventually you should even be able to have your hands in your dogs bowl while he is eating without any sign of aggression. That may take time, don't rush it.
Stand at a distance your dog is comfortable with, then gradually reduce this distance over time. You can toss some kibble in (or near) the food bowl as you slowly get closer.
Eventually you should be able to sit near and perhaps nearer to the dog when he eats. Ignoring him sometimes, praising him other times. He has to learn this is no big deal!
Stroke and pet your dog while he is eating and at the same time talk to him in a calming tone. All you are doing at this point is showing your dog that it is a good thing and not a threatening thing for you to be around.
Put your dogs bowl down with nothing in it, your dog will look back at you for the food. That is what we want - him looking to you for provision, then some gentle praise. Do this without any anxiety on your part and make it happen several times a day. This takes the energy out of the "handing the bowl" action.
Feed your dog as normal but hold back some of the meal. When he is finished, he'll look to you perhaps for more, then you can come over and give him the remaining food.
Treat your dog during the day, but make him do something to earn the treat. A Sit Stay or a Down Stay is perfect. Now he is earning a treat and meals.
Occasionally, when your dog is eating, call him over to you with an extra yummy treat, when he gets to you give it to him, make it fun and rewarding, then let him go back to eating.
Try a few of these things and be consistent, plan on taking one to two months of re-establishing and re-conditioning. Then, and only then, let boyfriend start the baby steps.
In this case, never ever punish the dog as it will only make things much worse.
You've done some things right, and some very classically wrong. Putting the food up and having the dog sit or "earn" the provision of food is good. And you noticed it did work for a while.
However, when more food guarding occurred and the boyfriend physically punished him - THAT escalates the battle! You never respond to canine possession aggression with aggression of your own. In essence what this does is to lock you and your dog into a battle of wills. Your dog's next move will most likely be to step up his level of aggression in order to counter your action. And I think you have seen that happen also.
You will now have to re-condition your dog to accepting and enjoying having you around at meal times.
Stop all aggression toward the dog. I would have only you do this training at first. Get it established, then introduce boyfriend in the mix. If that does not work - get a new boyfriend. :')
Try hand feeding the dog little bits of food - almost as training treats. Slowly there is an acceptance of your hand providing the food he wants, AND a positive praise from you. Eventually you should even be able to have your hands in your dogs bowl while he is eating without any sign of aggression. That may take time, don't rush it.
Stand at a distance your dog is comfortable with, then gradually reduce this distance over time. You can toss some kibble in (or near) the food bowl as you slowly get closer.
Eventually you should be able to sit near and perhaps nearer to the dog when he eats. Ignoring him sometimes, praising him other times. He has to learn this is no big deal!
Stroke and pet your dog while he is eating and at the same time talk to him in a calming tone. All you are doing at this point is showing your dog that it is a good thing and not a threatening thing for you to be around.
Put your dogs bowl down with nothing in it, your dog will look back at you for the food. That is what we want - him looking to you for provision, then some gentle praise. Do this without any anxiety on your part and make it happen several times a day. This takes the energy out of the "handing the bowl" action.
Feed your dog as normal but hold back some of the meal. When he is finished, he'll look to you perhaps for more, then you can come over and give him the remaining food.
Treat your dog during the day, but make him do something to earn the treat. A Sit Stay or a Down Stay is perfect. Now he is earning a treat and meals.
Occasionally, when your dog is eating, call him over to you with an extra yummy treat, when he gets to you give it to him, make it fun and rewarding, then let him go back to eating.
Try a few of these things and be consistent, plan on taking one to two months of re-establishing and re-conditioning. Then, and only then, let boyfriend start the baby steps.
In this case, never ever punish the dog as it will only make things much worse.
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