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What's the best grooming tool????
Hi, I have a 6 month old Alaskan Malamute. He is just comming into his first spring and has a thick undercoat that he is starting to shed. I would love to hear from anyone out there with a long haired dog that has a thick undercoat and sheds. What is the best brush/rake to use??? I don't think the one i'm using is good enough.
I have seen something called a Furminator mentioned and also Coat King. I would love to hear others opinions before I buy one.
I have seen something called a Furminator mentioned and also Coat King. I would love to hear others opinions before I buy one.
Our lhasa apso looks like Bigfoot - he's well groomed everywhere but his feet = (
The shih tzu is "different" - he enjoys being bathed and groomed.
The Akita - after 12 yrs has finally accepted having her nails "done".
It's the Siberian husky who has to be sedated and I hate to have her sedated for having her nails trimmed. I'll try those "wrestling holds" on her.
Also - I saw a TV commercial about some device for cutting dogs' nails but can't remember the name of it or if it's any good.
My daughter works at an animal hospital and has learned a bit about grooming but she isn't a groomer herself. She finds usually it's the feet that dogs don't like having touched - except for Rawhide, our shih tzu. But then he dresses up like Snow White
= P
The shih tzu is "different" - he enjoys being bathed and groomed.
The Akita - after 12 yrs has finally accepted having her nails "done".
It's the Siberian husky who has to be sedated and I hate to have her sedated for having her nails trimmed. I'll try those "wrestling holds" on her.
Also - I saw a TV commercial about some device for cutting dogs' nails but can't remember the name of it or if it's any good.
My daughter works at an animal hospital and has learned a bit about grooming but she isn't a groomer herself. She finds usually it's the feet that dogs don't like having touched - except for Rawhide, our shih tzu. But then he dresses up like Snow White
= P
For us it's the groomer. The last time we tried it ourself, our little ShihTzu ended up looking like one of those horses with the huge hoofs full of long, shaggy hair LOL!
C~
C~
The rubber curry brush is the same thing as what you'd use on a horse, except they make different types specifically for dogs. For a rat terrier, you could use a horse curry brush (which has short, triangular shaped teeth), but for a longer haired short-hair breed, such as a lab, or a even a long-hair breed like a setter or retriever, use a curry brush that has cone-shaped prongs rather than short, triangular shaped teeth.
You can get the dog curry brushes at Petsmart; I'd recommend the Groomax rubber curry brush (with the triangular teeth) and the KONG Zoom Groom (with the cone prongs). Both are under $10.
As for brushing/grooming dogs in areas they don't like touched, that's kind of a tricky question to answer. It depends on how much your dog will tolerate from you and what their potential aggression level is. Some dogs, no matter what you try, cannot be groomed without help from another person or being sedated by a vet.
In my experience though, dogs that don't like to be touched usually give in at some point if you are understanding but firm and don't give in. However, it's also quite common that dogs will do just fine with a groomer in a groom shop (neutral territory) than with their owner in their home.
I used to have dog owners come in absolutely certain their dog would give me a problem because they couldn't do it themselves, but I'd tell them to step out of sight (usually for a nail trim) for a few minutes. They'd watch from an unseen distance as I'd get the dog on the table, pick up each foot, have little to no problem at all, and be done in a matter of minutes--and the owner would come back, their mouth hanging open, asking, "How did you do that?"
There's always the problem dogs though. But like I said, dogs just need to know that you're the dominant one, although understanding and compassionate, but they need to know you'll be firm too. Sometimes you have to muzzle a dog and gently wrestle with them until they get too tired to resist before you can do anything, and this can take anywhere from five minutes to over an hour (lol, and if it's a big dog, you hope that the dog will tire out before you do). You just have to let them know this is not something that will hurt them (it might be a bit uncomfortable brushing out tangles or if you accidentally quick a nail). Talk to them softly and never yell at them, as yelling makes them more nervous, but keep a firm voice if they try to bite or place themselves in a dominant position over you.
For nail trims, there are certain holds you can use that make it harder for the dog to resist. The first hold is to bend the paw under, so the top of the paw is facing the floor, cupped in your hand. Hold the paw with the upper toe on the back of the leg over your thumb. If the dog resists, you can slightly pull the leg upward towards its back and back towards its tail. Do the same for the back legs.
Another hold for the more resistant dog (and usually larger breed) is to place yourself rib-to-rib with your dog, you facing the dog's tail, the dog facing your back. Hold the foot in the position described above, but lock the dog's elbow (where the leg connects to the body) under your armpit. The dog cannot move forward or backward because they're in a leglock--but don't do this if they try to bite! Keep the same position for doing the back legs, but lock the leg hock under your armpit/against your chest with your elbow over the top of the hock, so your shoulder is about level with the buttocks. Cup and hold the foot. Again, don't use this position of the dog bites.
The worst position to use is holding the dog's front leg out in front of him with the paw pads in your palm. It's too easy for the dog to pull away/pull back and resist, and you risk a bigger chance of quicking the nail. Same for the back leg; don't pick the leg up and pull it forward. All the dog has to do is pull back and up and jump sideways to resist. And the more a dog knows it can resist and fear getting quicked, the worse off you'll be to attempt a nail trim again.
I will definitely try to work in the time to write a Health Page--it might be about a week or so. :-)
You can get the dog curry brushes at Petsmart; I'd recommend the Groomax rubber curry brush (with the triangular teeth) and the KONG Zoom Groom (with the cone prongs). Both are under $10.
As for brushing/grooming dogs in areas they don't like touched, that's kind of a tricky question to answer. It depends on how much your dog will tolerate from you and what their potential aggression level is. Some dogs, no matter what you try, cannot be groomed without help from another person or being sedated by a vet.
In my experience though, dogs that don't like to be touched usually give in at some point if you are understanding but firm and don't give in. However, it's also quite common that dogs will do just fine with a groomer in a groom shop (neutral territory) than with their owner in their home.
I used to have dog owners come in absolutely certain their dog would give me a problem because they couldn't do it themselves, but I'd tell them to step out of sight (usually for a nail trim) for a few minutes. They'd watch from an unseen distance as I'd get the dog on the table, pick up each foot, have little to no problem at all, and be done in a matter of minutes--and the owner would come back, their mouth hanging open, asking, "How did you do that?"
There's always the problem dogs though. But like I said, dogs just need to know that you're the dominant one, although understanding and compassionate, but they need to know you'll be firm too. Sometimes you have to muzzle a dog and gently wrestle with them until they get too tired to resist before you can do anything, and this can take anywhere from five minutes to over an hour (lol, and if it's a big dog, you hope that the dog will tire out before you do). You just have to let them know this is not something that will hurt them (it might be a bit uncomfortable brushing out tangles or if you accidentally quick a nail). Talk to them softly and never yell at them, as yelling makes them more nervous, but keep a firm voice if they try to bite or place themselves in a dominant position over you.
For nail trims, there are certain holds you can use that make it harder for the dog to resist. The first hold is to bend the paw under, so the top of the paw is facing the floor, cupped in your hand. Hold the paw with the upper toe on the back of the leg over your thumb. If the dog resists, you can slightly pull the leg upward towards its back and back towards its tail. Do the same for the back legs.
Another hold for the more resistant dog (and usually larger breed) is to place yourself rib-to-rib with your dog, you facing the dog's tail, the dog facing your back. Hold the foot in the position described above, but lock the dog's elbow (where the leg connects to the body) under your armpit. The dog cannot move forward or backward because they're in a leglock--but don't do this if they try to bite! Keep the same position for doing the back legs, but lock the leg hock under your armpit/against your chest with your elbow over the top of the hock, so your shoulder is about level with the buttocks. Cup and hold the foot. Again, don't use this position of the dog bites.
The worst position to use is holding the dog's front leg out in front of him with the paw pads in your palm. It's too easy for the dog to pull away/pull back and resist, and you risk a bigger chance of quicking the nail. Same for the back leg; don't pick the leg up and pull it forward. All the dog has to do is pull back and up and jump sideways to resist. And the more a dog knows it can resist and fear getting quicked, the worse off you'll be to attempt a nail trim again.
I will definitely try to work in the time to write a Health Page--it might be about a week or so. :-)
You were a groomer - any suggestions about how to brush them in areas they don't like having touched? Two of mine hate having their feet touched or their nails cut.
Thank you.
Thank you.
Hey AJ - I've mostly had short-haired, low-maintenance dogs so grooming isn't a huge concern - or expense! Is the rubber curry you mention the same that you would use on a horse? I actually have a couple of those left from my horse-ownership days that would be great on my current critter's coats. Don't know why I never thought of it.
How about this idea? If you have time, would you consider writing a Health Page about grooming? You obviously have a tremendous amount of knowledge and experience and it would be great to be able to direct members to a permanent article when these questions arise. :-)
How about this idea? If you have time, would you consider writing a Health Page about grooming? You obviously have a tremendous amount of knowledge and experience and it would be great to be able to direct members to a permanent article when these questions arise. :-)
I was a dog groomer for about three years, and the best brushes you can use for your malamute are (follow this order to brush):
1) A short pronged undercoat rake. Brush out all the undercoat you can with it.
2) A rubber curry brush. This takes off loose overcoat and some leftover undercoat.
3) A shedding blade. This takes off most of the loose overcoat.
4) A slicker brush. Use this on a weekly basis to maintain loose overcoat and undercoat.
You can buy all these brushes at Petsmart. I'd recommend brushing your dog with the undercoat rake first, then bath your dog in warm water to loosen up the rest of the hair and open up the porous hair folllicles. Either blow dry the dog or let him air dry before you continue brushing (brushing wet hair damages the coat, except for the rubber curry brush. You can use that on a wet coat if you want). When the dog is dry, brush until you're pleased with the results.
I don't know about the Furminator or Coat King; I've never used them. But I've heard from people who have that they work well, although they're expensive.
1) A short pronged undercoat rake. Brush out all the undercoat you can with it.
2) A rubber curry brush. This takes off loose overcoat and some leftover undercoat.
3) A shedding blade. This takes off most of the loose overcoat.
4) A slicker brush. Use this on a weekly basis to maintain loose overcoat and undercoat.
You can buy all these brushes at Petsmart. I'd recommend brushing your dog with the undercoat rake first, then bath your dog in warm water to loosen up the rest of the hair and open up the porous hair folllicles. Either blow dry the dog or let him air dry before you continue brushing (brushing wet hair damages the coat, except for the rubber curry brush. You can use that on a wet coat if you want). When the dog is dry, brush until you're pleased with the results.
I don't know about the Furminator or Coat King; I've never used them. But I've heard from people who have that they work well, although they're expensive.
I don't envy you having to deal with that shedding undercoat. Sometimes it seems like it will never end. I've had good results with a plain, long bristle brush - kind of like what humans would use with a blow dryer. The wider apart and longer the bristles, the more of the undercoat ends up in the brush. Then use a soft brush to tame down the guard hairs.
We've had to brush twice a day when old Chica shot her coat in the Spring. Not fun!
We've had to brush twice a day when old Chica shot her coat in the Spring. Not fun!
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